How to replace a latex neck seal 101.


So very recently I loan my cag to a client and we had a bit of an oopsie with the neck seal when it was being taken off. This happens loads of folks & and I know people panic and think it will cost a fortune to send it away to be fixed. With a little bit of concentration and less that 20mins you can have the job done and ready to rock and roll for full use 24hrs later.

Now to be fair I have done a bunch of these back in the days when I worked in an outdoor shop many many moons ago but its seems more daunting that it actually is. The folks in i-canoe hooked me up with a Kokatat neck seal repair kit which has everything you need to do the job, the seals come in two sizes so everyone is covered.

Kokatat neck seal repair kitalt

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So as you can see in the kit you get:

  • The replacement seal
  • Small section of sandpaper
  • UV protection solution
  • Aquasure glue
  • Instructions

There a a bunch of different ways to go about this and I chose not to follow the instructions provided by Kokatat as I had my own way of doing it. So in addition to the kit I also need a craft knife ( or in my cast my NRS wingman) and a method of stretching out the neck of your cag. I have always favoured the use of this specialist bit of kit.


I’ve always used a traffic cone in the past to stretch out the neck of my cag and make the repair easier for me, sadly when the way the Peak creek Cag is made it doesn’t allow it to slide far enough down the cone to get enough of a stretch. I could have resolved this by padding out the cone higher up with some towels but I was feeling kinda lazy& there happened to be a small bucket right beside me that looked like it would do the job just fine.

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So as you can see from the photo I slid the cag over the bucket and using a sharp craft knife I trimmed away the damaged neck seal while still leaving about 35mm of the existing seal. All you have to do now is slide the new seal over your cone/ bucket so it rests pretty close to its finial position. And then lift back the edge as per photo ready for sanding / gluing.




The Next step is just to take the small piece of sand paper you got in your repair kit and give the part of the latex you intend on gluing a very light sand just enough to create a key for the glue to adhere to. Now we are ready to get with the gluing, so open up the tube of Aquasure and apply an even bead around the existing next seal. Be careful no to go to close to the edge or you will stick your cag to the bucket when you pair the new seal.



So once you have applied glue the whole way around the seal it should look kinda like this, the next bit is super easy as all you have to do is fold the new seal on to the now glued section. The trick here is not to be afraid of it and just do it, once it sitting on it rub around the joining with your thumb to make sure you get a good seal and press out all of the air bubbles.



Now were are almost done the new seal is sitting perfect and we have no glue seeping out on our cag. I always like to add an extra bead of aquasure around the seam as it just a nice bit of reassurance and can’t hurt.


Right that’s the job done. The glue sets in 6ish hours but I always like to leave it a little longer before I take it off the cone/ bucket and then give it  an additional 24 hours to to make sure the glue is fully cured. Your cag will now be ready to rock and roll and be 100% dry again.

This is one of those things I reckon every one should try as its pretty easy and only takes 20minutes max, I think it took me longer to write this post that to fix the seal.

If you have any questions fire away.




EDIT: I have written another guide for a different method which you can find here

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Posted in Gear Review, How to.


  1. Cheers for this brill step by step guide, ordered my DIY kit for this cag I borrowed off somebody and broke accidentally so they gave it to me once they’d bought a replacement!

    I have a short sleeved cag (the peak combi) and I was planning on fitting a latex neck seal as it only has a neoprene one – which lets a bit of water in. Any suggestions how to fit it? i.e. glue it to the cag material at the base of the neoprene?



  2. Hi Ashley,

    I’m glad the guide is of use to you, let us know how you get on with your repair.

    As for your question with fitting a latex next to your combi-shorty, I have seen a bunch of people try this and make a mess of it which in turn messes up a good bit of kit. I have one of these shorties myself I know the next is only “semi dry” but given I only wear it when its not freezing cold I dint see it as an issue at all. Plus I reckon the adtion of a latex seal might take away from the feeling of freedom the neo seal provides.

    If I was to try attach a latex seal to it you would have to be careful as the fabric used in the combi cag is a laminate and Im sure wont take too kindly of you spreading heaps of aquasure all over it. But I would try glue the seal 50/50 between the existing neo seal and the cag body.

    But seeing as you already have a dry cag I wouldnt go tampering with the good shorty you have.

    Best of luck.


  3. Hi I was wondering when you leave the cag seal over the cone/bucket (whatever :P) wouldnt the seal stretch alot and not go back to its original shape???

  4. Hi Rickell,

    Normally I try to use something cone shape so that I am only stretching the lower section of the Latex Seal. However as of late in the last 6 months I have repaired 4/5 of these where I only had a bucket to hand. I have found no adverse to the latex what so ever and from the feedback I am getting it seems to shorten the “wearing in period” of the new gasket so the user can actually breath when they put it on.

    Often folks get new gaskets and trim them to size before the latex seal is any way stretched, what then happens after a few uses the latex relaxes a little and can some times let in water as the seal has been trimmed too tight.

    So in short a cone is ideal but using a bucket/pot has had no adverse affects.


  5. Hi Adrian,

    As a life of a cag/drysuit is (or should be) a couple of seasons it’d be necessary to replace latex more than once. Is it possible to replace latex neck seal more than once in the same cag/suit? and would it be comfy with multilayer of latex on your neck?


  6. Hi Bohdan,

    There is no limit to the number of times you can replace the latex neck seal, there are a couple of different methods you can replace a neck seal. I would be happy to do it a couple of times the way I have demonstrated before I would worry about having a build up of latex. If you are stuck or need some advice drop me an email.


  7. Hi Adrian
    I followed your tips to replace a neck seal on my dry cag and it worked out great. Id never done it before and you were right only 20 mins or so. The pictures really helped alot along with the detailed instructions. Thanks for the tips.
    Cheers Brian.

  8. Hi I need to replace neck & ankle seals, can you recommend a supplier?
    Do you put a relaese agent (talc or petrolum gel) on cone?
    What do you use to shape sleeves/ ankles?

  9. Hi MIke,

    I didn’t use a release agent on the cone, the reason being that you have to ensure that the glue does not come into contact with the cone or it will make this very difficult. The cone or bucket should be clean and free from grit or dirt. I have in the past covered the cone on cling film, this acts like a barrier and if you do make a mistake and have glue seep out and end up sticking your new seal to the cone its easier fix.

    As for a supplier, I see from your ip address that you are baised in the UK, I cna reccomend that are baised here in Ireland but opreate an fantastic postal service which is known to arrive faster than UK suppliers. The guys in i-canoe stock kokatat seals which I can vouch for myself in how top quality they are. Remember not all seals are created equailly.

    In the uk most paddle sport stockists like Robin hood water sports or Brookbank should stock replacements, you can also try google “Rubberman” who offer good value replacements, I’ve not used their seals but I know the prices are keen.

    Best of luck with your DIY and if you have any questions ask away and be sure to let us know how you got on.


  10. Hi Adrian
    Advice from my experience that may benefit someone.
    Confidence is the key, collect all you need, prepare thoroughly and do not rush.
    I found 2 litre pop bottles make excellent formers for ankle and sleeves. dusting with talcum powder aids insertion, they can be filled with water to give a firm working surface for scarifying cleaning and bonding, emptying water aids removal. Clean dust from seals and material with spirit.
    I started by using Evo-Stick 528 contact adhesive applied with a flat stiff art brush. You need to work fast, the glue dries on the brush so needs frequent cleaning in spirit as you go, possibly leading to dilution. I found it grabby and unforgiving.
    Much better was heavy duty spray adhesive due to speed of application allowing adjustment when fitting seal due to moist glue. I used an A4 envelope tucked into fold for masking as it provided correct properties and also broad low tack masking tape.
    To finish and provide extra security and adhesion I put a small bead of clear Dow Corning 781 or 785 on internal and external edges to overlap smoothing with a wet finger. I have found using silicone is equal to Aquasure but so much more for your money. I have used it for repairs to my neoprene spray deck used for pool coaching so gets abused by chemicals and rescue scuffs, great for sealing seams (if you get it on clothes try sticky stuff remover, acetone or medical hand cleaner).
    5 Seals <£20 Silicone <£4 310ml tube (basic sealant gun <£3), Spray adhesive <£4.
    Can be fiddly and time consuming until skilled pleased with the results from a practical point of view and all seams are hidden by cuffs so visually fine.
    My original seals were dated 1996, not overly used but if the replacement lasts 14 years I might just treat myself to some new kit.
    I keep kit clean, rinse in fresh water, air dry and talc, store with seals tucked in, in a plastic storage box somewhere with even temperature.
    Seals from seaskin Leeds. Silicone from Screwfix.
    Drysuit seal lube from Gasdiving (ebay) may help when kit in use.
    Hope this is useful to someone.
    Good luck
    Mike (Stroud Valley Canoe Club)

  11. Cheers for the great tutorial Adrian. I used a traffic cone and a two litre coke bottle. By this stage I had forgotten what it felt like to be warm and dry on a river!

  12. Adrian I have a typhoon scuba diving drysuit, do you think that this technique would work for a scuba drysuit. i would probably apply tape over the edges of the seal on both the outside and the inside for extra security. I don’t see no reason why not. might have to cheack the glues are good for being submersed for long periods

  13. Hi Mark,

    While I have never done it my self as far as I know pretty much the same technique is used for diving drysuits. The only difference is that diving seals seem to me a little more robust than the ones use in surface drysuits. The glue “Aquasure” is used in the repair of wetsuits and all manor of things neoprene, I have even used it to plus a small crack in a boat is designed to be in the water all the time, once it sets and cures correctly it will more than likely out last the life span of your suit.

    Best of luck with your repair, and sure let us know how you get on. or even send on a few photos to share.


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